Seam opening of ISO-301 stitched seams in woven stretch fabrics under repeated loading conditions


Kalaoglu F., Meric B.

1st International Textile Clothing and Design Conference, Dubrovnik, Croatia, 6 - 09 October 2002, pp.371-375 identifier

  • Publication Type: Conference Paper / Full Text
  • Volume:
  • City: Dubrovnik
  • Country: Croatia
  • Page Numbers: pp.371-375

Abstract

During usage, seams of the garments extend and recover repeatedly. When the seam is forced at right angles to its direction seam slippage of the fabric yams and the deformation of the stitches are occurred. The response of stitch during repeated loading depends on stitch type,stitch density,sewing thread and fabric properties. In this study, the effect of repeated loading on the seam opening and seam slippage of woven stretch fabrics are investigated. Four fabrics were produced with the weft yams having different elastane draw ratios in order to see the effect of draft on the seam slippage and seam opening. The grey fabrics are boiled according to Dupont boiling test in order to gain stretch properties. Then 150x100 mm samples were prepared for seaming. The samples were sewn from the middle of the longest side of the samples. Repeated loading was applied on Instron tensile testing machine with 150 mm/minute jaw speed. Extension limit was chosen 40% for stretch direction and 25% for non stretch direction. Seam opening and seam slippage of the seams were measured after 25,50,75, 100 repeated loading.